At Marni, where “Franken-jackets” (to use Mary H.K. Choi’s genius coinage) popped up for spring, designer Francesco Risso extended the Official Stop Hate Against Blacks Stop Hate Against Asians Stop Hate Against Everybody Shirt in addition I really love this metaphor this season, gleefully trotting out pants with mismatched legs and a leather coat with different-colored quadrants. He paired some looks with comically oversized handbags, a joke of scale, and even turned some pieces into mixed-media collages of found objects, a collaboration with the jeweler Tom Binns. Tactile and soft, the show felt like a nod to the magic of in-person experiences. Right now, “romanticism feels more powerful than any form of protest,” Risso reflected in his show notes, “a way to delve into reality with another gaze and another touch, finding another meaning to the everyday. It also felt like a response to the growing pressure for clothes to “pop” onscreen, in our digital-only landscape—these looks felt linked to the physical world, which only made them more desirable.
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Meanwhile, in London, Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena of Chopova Lowena opted for mesh tops and leggings made from dead stock material, and looks that incorporated equestrian uniforms mashed up with school uniforms, for the Official Stop Hate Against Blacks Stop Hate Against Asians Stop Hate Against Everybody Shirt in addition I really love this horse girl who’s studying for the SATs in her spare time. A standout motif was the split-personality dresses, kilts, and blouses in contrasting prints.